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not all those who wander are lost


Sunday, May 30, 2010

Shopping Bliss

BIENVENIDOS A BUENOS AIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We arrived very late at night, so our first night in the city consisted of a pizza dinner, not recommended by Lonely Planet but still delicious.  It was a deep dish pizza--the first of it's kind I've seen south of Chicago.  I must say, it definitely put up a fight to the Windy City versions.  Although we were tired, our French amigos invited us to check out an "internationally known" club called Pacha.  It was quite an experience.  DJ's spinning some crazy good beats in the different areas of the club provided a nice backdrop to dancing and good timing with friends.  Lonely Planet encourages you to stay until sunrise on the patio but we did not make it that long.


The next day was full of surprise and adventure.  We woke up and headed to a neighborhood south of the Microcentro called San Telmo.  There is a huge artisan's market there and I was in shopping heaven for hours.  Brice wasn't nearly as impressed with opportunities to shop, but he was impressed with my ability to spot the deals and consequently make them mine.  Let's just say, I'm bringing home a lot of presents for you!  I looked for Argentine goods.  This market was full of authentic artisan crafts--not all the fake junk that sometimes infiltrates these open air markets.  My favorite purchases of the day include a fancy leather belt, a beautiful tango photograph and a special necklace.  Thank goodness for the peso/ dollar exchange rate!

Mi Querida Argentina

It's official.  It is my beloved Argentina.  

I've kept my blog posts as up-beat and focused on the positive as possible.  But let's take a reality check.  SPOILER: Honesty moment alert.  Studying abroad is an experience of epic proportions.  In definition it takes you away from everything familiar, everything normal and throws you headfirst into a foreign culture, where they speak a different language that you've only ever learned in a classroom, operate differently, think differently, act differently, eat differently... It's an adjustment and acceptance process.

Before I left for Argentina, I was required to take a class to prepare.  This class, although it seemed silly at the time, has proved to be a huge help to me.  If nothing else, it kept me thinking as positively as possible through the ups and downs of culture shock.

Oh culture shock, two nasty little words.  The funny thing about culture shock is that you cannot really recognize it while you are going through it--it is a very retrospective process.  I first experienced culture shock this past summer when I traversed the European continent.  I definitely didn't recognize it at the time but just felt incredibly overwhelmed and exhausted and sad and a million other feelings.  After being in the class, I realized that what I had felt wasn't me being "weak" or "unworldly" but rather a very normal and very expected reaction to encountering new cultures.  I thought I was much more prepared (i.e. invincible) this time around, but the culture shock virus did eventually catch up with me--in new and unexpected ways.

So first in the Culture Shock Curve comes the honeymoon phase.  This is also known as the "tourist" or "cultural euphoria" stage. Usually when just visiting for a short period of time, you stay within this phase the whole time.  Everything is peachy-keen and you see the world through rose-colored glasses.  The words exciting, cultural, new, happy are thrown around a lot.  Next, we start to slide down the curve into the deep dark oblivion of "cultural confrontation."  Just like the class warned, I found myself here about a month ago, almost exactly halfway through my experience.  I knew it might come, but at first I struggled to recognize that my homesickness feelings or frustration with my life here came from culture shock--but they certainly did.  It wasn't as intense as I experienced this past summer, but it was there.  I felt out of place and sad.  I missed home, missed good ole American food, missed my family, my friends.  But more than missing, I felt a little lost here.  I felt like my Spanish wasn't improving anymore, I felt like I was missing out on opportunities to improve it.  I was basically grumpy for about two straight weeks.

Like magic, I transitioned into the "cultural adjustment" phase.  According to my manual, this means I have reached "significant cultural adjustment."  I beam with pride.  It was as much a conscious decision as a unconscious one.  I looked at the calendar and realized I had less than half of my time here and rededicated myself to taking advantage of every opportunity.  Also, the people here really helped me.  I started to realize how much my friends that I've made meant to me.  And also, how much I would miss not seeing them everyday.  I maybe haven't gotten as much sleep the past few weeks, but I've had the best times.  No worries, I'm still making time for school, and sleep--both pivotally important I know.  I feel myself falling in love with this experience a little bit more everyday.  I know I am changing.  I feel it, I see it every time I look in the mirror.  I know I am more self-reliant, I've learned to not sweat the small stuff as much, I have an ever-increasing capacity to relate cross-culturally.  Call me a cliche, but I am becoming the person I've always wanted to be.

I don't think I've quite reached the "cultural adaptation" stage.  I'm not completely accepted as a Cordobesa quite yet--but I'm getting there.  I must say again, it's easy to focus on the language and say, "Wow, look at that-- I've gotten so much better at Spanish."  It is very true; but it is so much more than that.  I've gotten better at being Becky.  I can't wait to find out what the last two months here has in store for me.  Stay tuned.  

Catch the travel bug.

I have it and I would like to spread my germs to you... in a non-gross, micro-biotic way.

This is a really cool interactive map that shows the most and least traveled places on earth.  Any and all fellow travelers will love it--as will anyone who likes pretty colors and wants to be more informed!

Enjoy:

Tourist Map : Google Earth

Monday, May 10, 2010

Come on baby let's go to Vegas

Class was canceled on Thursday.  A day with nothing to do?  Let's jump on a bus!

Leigh, Juan, Austin and I headed to the town of Carlos Paz for the day.  Carlos Paz is some 40 minutes away from Cordoba, and it a common escape for the Cordobeses.  The day was dreary, but our spirits were high.  I was most looking forward to the chairlift that takes you up, up and away into the mountain.  Alas, it was under construction.  Rain pending, we headed to a small restaurant on the main strip and indulged in a healthy lunch of pizza and french fries.  Yes, yes I know.  I say again, don't judge.  It was delicious.


We wandered about the town, eating ice cream and taking in the sights that this place has to offer.  Finally, getting chilled, my companions and I decided to head inside, and check out something else Carlos Paz is famous for.... casinos.  I felt like I was on the set of Ocean's 11!  It was fun just to walk around and take in the lights and glamor.  My friends tried their hands at some blackjack and it was fun to watch.  Afterward, we headed back to Cordoba, but it was a nice way to spend the day seeing more of what this great province has to offer.


Thanks for another fun day Cordoba!

Llamas, Chickens and.... Dancing Elephants?




I went to the Zoo!


Yes.  I'm 21 years old.  Don't judge.  You know you love the zoo too.  The zoo is located within the lush greenery of Parque Sarimientos, the largest park in the city.  Juliette and I decided Wednesday morning would be a lovely opportunity to take in the Argentine version of a beloved pastime.

Results? A nice and relaxing afternoon.  Back in February, Brice proffered that perhaps the zoo was nothing more than a stray dog chained to a tree... Luckily, this was far from the case.  The zoo has a beautiful landscape, which is almost better than the animals.  The animals are varied, but mostly  focus on the wildlife of South America, specifically Argentina and Chile.  It was funny to see some of the "exotic" animals... like the north American buffalo.

My father should be happy to know that I've finally seen a donkey... in the zoo.  Before I came here, he insisted that my host mother would take me home on the back of our burro.  I keep trying to convince him that this a developing country... he's a good sport.

The elephant came out to say hello, and she did a little dance for us.  I don't know if it was on purpose.. but it certainly seemed like it!

Unfortunately, we missed the Aquatics show, renowned as the highlight of the zoo adventure; we'll have to catch it next time.

The zoo was a fun and silly way to pass the morning.  It was a beautiful setting to walk and talk and have a little nature time.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Alta Gracia... take two. ACTION

The province of Cordoba offers free admission to all museums and historical sites on Wednesdays.  Armed with this wonderful newfound knowledge, my friend, Will, and I have dedicated every Wednesday to a cultural adventure of one sort or another.

Last Wednesday, we started with Alta Gracia.  Now for you diligent readers, you will remember that one of my first weekends here, we went to Alta Gracia for the World Fair.  However, we didn't see much of the town itself.  Plus, the bus ticket there is $7 pesos argentinos.  That is, just over $2 USD.  It's about 40 minutes to the south of the city and is a marvelous little town.

The center of the town is a small lake... glorified pond really.  Not to discount it, for it provides a beautiful fall backdrop this time of year.

After walking around the lake, we found the
tourist office and set to work.  The friendly woman at the office outlined a quick tour of the town for us.  It was a quite circle around the town ending at the bus station... "from where you can leave," she told us in a very matter-of-fact way.  I would venture that Alta Gracians don't appreciate the day tourists too much, but put up with them none the less.  Or maybe it was just this woman.  She also thought Will looks like an Argentine doctor.  No, better said, she insisted Will was an Argentine doctor.  I don't see it... but tell me what you think:

Regardless, map in hand, we set off for an adventure.

Now for the less linguistically inclined of my dearest readers, Alta Gracia directly translated means High Grace.  Not knowing the origins of the town, I assumed it had a religious significance.  It undoubtedly does, but I believe it also refers to the many hills the town possesses.  Sure, maybe it is a place of grace, but you will have to be up pretty high to receive it!

Our first stop is probably the hallmark of Alta Gracia--Che's house.  Formally, it is the old residence of Ernesto "Che" Guevara--the communist revolutionary war hero.  This house (where he actually only lived for about 10 years) has been converted into a museum celebrating his life and legacy.  (See post titled El Che)
Che's house...

Manuel de Falla...


Next, we ventured to the house of Manuel de Falla, a Spanish composer who spent his later years in Alta Gracia.  I've been absolutely in love with classical music lately and I think he is a great composer.  His works ebb and flow beautifully and are just a joy to listen to.  Check out El Amor Brujo, one of his best known works.

Tired from all the hills and culture, we sat at a nice outdoor cafe and had a tabla--a wonderful little snack.  Tablas consist of various finger foods which are great with a refreshing beverage to relax in the afternoon.  Usually, tablas have peanuts, cold slices of ham, bread, cheese, olives, and other treats.


After this, we felt rejuvenated to tackle the Jesuit Estancia in Alta Gracia.  Estancias are a fancy words for a home or compound.  A bunch of Jesuits lived and worked here back in the day.  It was full of interesting old things, including a buffet that was over 12' tall... apparently they were giants back then.  Unfortunately, I didn't plan ahead, and my camera ran out of battery before I could snap a photo.  Regardless, it's always nice to learn more about the Jesuits, as they have influenced Cordoba so much.



Thanks Alta Gracia, for a full and educational day...
   

El Che

~ An in-depth analysis of all that is Che~
Image property of World Press: http://dchd9.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/che-guevara-serna.jpg


So what of his life and legacy?  He is El Che.  Che is the common Argentine interjection and therefore demonstrates so much about what this man means to Latin American culture.  Che is almost equivalent to how people could say, "Hey buddy, man, dude, etc" But is used much more frequently among people of all ages.  For example, "che, que hora es el examen?" (Hey, what time is the exam?) "che, me prestas un boligrafo por fa? (Dude, can I please borrow a pen?) "che, cuanto cuesta esta falda?" (Excuse me, how much is this skirt?)  It can be and is used with any person, in practically any situation.  Ergo, El Che represents Every Man--the epitome of culture.  He has become an international symbol of fighting for the rights of the poor and depraved.  Che is absolutely revered throughout Latin America.  The following picture is compliments of my friend Hector Bautista.  He encountered this on a pillar in the center of Cordoba a few weeks ago:  

Meaning: Che Lives

He was born in Rosario de Santa Fe, Argentina on June 14, 1928.  He passed his boyhood brilliantly, although very acute bouts of asthma caused the family to eventually move to Alta Gracia.  He was an avid reader, and athlete as well.

In his teenage years, he truly became the Che that we know today.  He took a year off from medical school and traversed South America on motorcycle with his friend, Alberto Granado.  Che was so astounded by the absolute poverty they found in the hills of the Andes, and in the communities throughout their journey.  They went from place to place, doing good for the people--eventually spending weeks in a leper colony--something that made international headlines.  

In 1953, he started another journey, this time traveling all the way to Mexico, and fatefully meeting Fidel Castro.  The two planned the coup d'etae to overthrow the Cuban dictator, Fulgencio Batista.  They considered Batista to be a puppet at the hands of the US's money interests and wanted to take matters into their own, Latin American hands.  The important thing to remember is ideologically, they were Marxist in thought.  Culturally, we've been trained to have such a strong aversion to anything resembling "dirty commies."  However, at the start, they had noble goals of helping the poor and raising up the common man.  It's just a fact that Marxist thought can never work... anywhere.  It's too philosophical of an idea and has no practicality for human nature nor the world in which we live.  Okay, maybe that's my opinion a little bit.  We all know what happened in Cuba, and the results thereof, so I need not expound upon that any further.  

Eventually, Che tried to encourage a communist uprising in Bolivia and was killed.  Now we come to another interesting crossroads.  In American textbooks, it will say that he was captured and killed by Bolivian militants.  However, the museum declares without shame, and with reason, that he was assassinated and blames the CIA.  The CIA did train some Bolivian forces and aided their effort, but Bolivians carried out his actual execution, to the best of my knowledge.  It's just interesting how history changes tone a little bit, depending on who is writing it.  

My overall thoughts:  Che is known for his catchphrase: !Hasta la Victoria Siempre! and some remember him only as his battle instructor deemed him, one of the best guerrilla fighters known to man.  However, I think there was a lot more to this man than his guerrilla tactics.  Call me victim of the propaganda, but since being here in Argentina, I can see the valiant hero behind the hype.  I'll never be a fan of any sort of Marxist/ Communist thought, but I can respect how he dedicated his life to working to improve the conditions of the people of Central and South America.  Even today, there is a huge disparity between our continents--believe me.  I plan to blog about this very soon.  Che was more than a revolutionary war hero, he was a philosopher, a writer and a family man.  I cannot be a true Che fan and follower like so many are, but I hope that you, like I, can find respect for this man, even if we cannot find admiration.  I was exceptionally affected by this poem in the museum, set in front of Che's infamous garb, that Che wrote (translation mine):





To read and write is to march forward

young people must create
a youth that does not create is an an anomaly

all must be endured
without ever losing tenderness

university should paint
black, mulatto, worker, farmer
so that it paints the people

we must unite the worker with the conscience
of the importance the creative act contains
so that he accomplishes it day to day, that he does the work
something created, something new

The requirement to be human is to
come closer to the best of humanity
so that man is purified through 
the work, the study, the solitary exercise
continued with the people