... it's my new saying for Buenos Aires, and Argentina in general. Directly translated, it says, "The Fire Lives." Nothing could be more true about this impassioned people and country. So often I avoid traveling to the capital city of a country because every capital in the world is alike, to an extent. Now, now, before you go throwing examples in my face, let me explain. The capital city, seat of government, etc. is bound to be a bit more metropolitan and a bit more busy than your typical city in any given country. Try to prove me wrong. Also, capitals are often known for their people--sometimes a different breed than the rest of the country. Case in point, Buenos Aires is known as the Paris of Latin America and both Paris and Buenos Aires are known for their slightly snobbish, very proud inhabitants. Having traveled in both, I concur. It's not that I dislike the people of either, they just know that they come from a special place, and want to make sure you know it too. However, Buenos Aires surprised me in ways I haven't even comprehended yet. Buenos Aires appears to be the epitome of all that is Argentina, especially during the festivities for the bicentennial. The fire lives--in Buenos Aires.
So what of this fire? Well, pardon the very general and somewhat stereotypical statements I am about to make: Argentine's are not hard-workers. In fact, as a whole, they avoid anything that appears like hard work as if it was an infectious disease. The result is apparent in the lack of customer service, and the general lethargy of their economy. I know that there are Argentine's with sweat on their brow working hard every day; I just haven't met them yet. The general public has been swindled and taken advantage of for many of its 200 years as a nation--you can't blame them for being less than thrilled about giving it their all.
However, their passion has remained alive in other ways. The resilience of these people astounds me. They stand by what is Argentine and they defend it to the bloody end. They are fiercely proud and fiercely protective of their culture and their loves. It's not a cultural cliche, the tango absolutely defines these people. The tango is a dance of passion, a dance of forsaken love, a dance of yearning. They don't need to be told they've been subjugated in the past, but you can't hear how they've stayed strong. Instead, you can only see it. You can see it in the fire that truly lives.
Walk into a futbol stadium, any stadium, and see the fire. See the fire in the eyes of a father as he holds his child's hand and points out a favored player. See the fire in the pointing finger as the grandpa next to you shouts rather colorful insults at the referee who is clearly blind, and/or watching a different soccer match. See the fire in the ferocious waving of the Argentine flag at every goal.
The fire is always there... just below the surface. Even sitting in cafes, the fire is there. Argentines are known for their cafe culture. The fire is tangible in the way they sit, the way they sip. The conversation is always lively, people interrupting, half rising in their seat to be heard above the rest. An Argentine loves nothing more than a good discussion--the more heated, the better.
Like other Latin American cultures, they take things a step slower here. Everything is relaxed, including time schedules, meals, and friendships. It should never be mistaken for a lack of caring or a lack of passion. At the beginning of my experience here, I think I made that mistake. But, after a lot of time and a lot of interaction, I see the fire. I feel the fire. I live the fire. To find your passion, to find your fire, makes life a bit sweeter. To take what you care for and magnify it---amazing.
The fire is absolutely tangible. The fire is absolutely real. Viva el fuego.