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not all those who wander are lost


Sunday, May 30, 2010

La Boca y el Baile

There are so many stories to be had in Buenos Aires, how can I select but just a few to share with my beloved readers? This one is famous enough to be told.

Buenos Aires is and has always been a city of immigrants.  Most notably, Spanish and Italian immigrants.  In years past, they flocked to Buenos Aires to work the port, and the factories surrounding it.  Many immigrants grouped together in a neighborhood that is today known as La Boca.  Some parts of it are still strongly working class, and somewhat scary for the casual tourist, but other parts have definitely jumped on the tourist wagon.  La Boca is famous in photographs for it's buildings.  After finishing their work painting ships, signs or whatever their job entailed, workers would often bring the extra paint home with them, to slap it on their corrugated steel homes, giving the neighborhood a vibrant, colorful appeal.


But the buildings aren't the only vibrant thing La Boca boasts.  Argentine tango was also invented on these streets.  The tango is a sensual dance, all about the push and pull of love.  There is always a hint of sadness in the steps, a longing desire for the unreachable.  The immigrants that developed this dance style felt that same yearning for a life they could only reach through dance.  The footwork is fancy, but the emotion is expressively poignant.  I am working on loading a video that I took at a tango show on our last night in Buenos Aires, check back for that.  Until then...





Bicentinario 1810-2010: Yo estuve



I am incredibly blessed in the life I lead.  I've had some absolutely incredible experiences in my 21 short years.  This trip marks one of the highlights.  I was already falling head over heels in love with Argentina--and this just cemented it in my heart forever.  With Superglue.
May 25th is the Dia de la Revolucion in Argentina--basically the 4th of July :).  This year market the 200th anniversary of the beginning of the Argentine Republic.  I was very excited to spend this day in the capital city and it did not disappoint.  All weekend there were special activities throughout the country, culminating in this special day.  All the plazas and main streets were completely shut down all weekend for crowds to gather and listen to musical performances, speakers, etc.

During the afternoon, we walked on the main fair grounds, eating delicious local fair, including the infamous Choripan sandwiches.  They consist of two ingredients, chorizo sausage and pan (bread).  Chorizo is a flavorful sausage, but not the spicy sausage we associate with Spain.  It has a fairly high fat content, which makes it all the more delicious, and is fried to a perfect crispy outside.  They are addicting.  The grounds had a bit of everything: booths of the different provinces, displays from various groups, balloons, stages, vendors, you name it.  We walked around for hours, soaking up the sun and the fun.

However, the highlight of the day was the parade.  The first people to walk down the street practically knocked me over.  Eight Latin American Presidents and one ex-president marched past us, only to take their place on a stage a stone's throw away.  We moved closer and finally got to stand about 30 feet from them.  I was losing my mind it was so cool.  It was hard to get a great picture, but this is the best our collective effort could do:
It's hard to spot them but Chavez, Lugo, Lula, Morales, Kirchner, Pinera, Correa, Mujica y Lazo all are there. Plus, good ole Nestor Kirchner, Cristina's husband.

This in itself was cool enough for me, and for the whole trip, but a spectacular parade followed.  It followed Argentina's history in the past 200 years.  The floats were huge and impressive and inventive.  Here are a few of my favorite shots:







It was really quite something

Vamos, Argentina.... VAMOOOOOOOSSSSSSSSSSS

Futbol.  (aka soccer). It's a way of life here.  And I got to experience it first hand!  The World Cup is coming up in a few weeks and the national team of Argentina had one more match before the real deal.  After much haggling and some frantic text messages between Leslie and myself, we finagled ourselves a spot on a bus to the stadium and tickets to the show.









And a show it was.  It reminded me of a Packer game, or maybe a Badger game, where all you see for miles around is a sea of the team's colors and fans cheering and hooting at every opportunity.  Before the actual game started, there was jets flying over and streamers and gallivanting about the stadium.  From the start, Canada didn't stand a chance.  My theory is they arranged this game so that Argentina could kick some tooshie in celebration of the bicentennial festivities.  Really, Canada, stick to soccer.  I love my northern neighbors--but the goalie literally ducked out of the way of the ball once.  I realize I am not a soccer expert, but my intuition tells me there is something fundamentally wrong with that move.


The energy in the stadium was at a fever pitch.  The cheers were loud, long and strong.  Argentina absolutely rocks the wave.  It slithered around the stadium multiple times.  These folks know how to do it up right. It was incredible to watch people come together so much over a sport.  It just shows how passionate this country is.  I love it.

 5-0

Unstoppable

...Be Our Guest...


That's right... I saw the Broadway musical Beauty and the Beast
Yes.  It was a dream come true.

I wasn't aware that it would be in Buenos Aires when we were, but my friend Leslie was able to get discount tickets through her bank so we all piled into the theater.  I make it sound so easy.  Here's what really happened:

Brice and I were late leaving the market (he finally caught the shopping bug and decided to make some last minute purchases, I have a bad influence like that [see Shopping Bliss for more information]).  As we began walking to meet with Leslie and Filipine at a cafe, the rain started.  The skies opened and rain flowed from the sky like Niagra, Iguazu and Victoria Falls all put together.  I have never seen/ felt rain so strong and so heavy in my life.  The umbrella proved useless against the torrential downpour.  We finally arrived a soaking, cold mess.

No matter how damp or cold I was, my spirits couldn't be dampened in the least.  It truly was magical.  It was in Spanish, but the songs sounded exactly the same, just the words were in Spanish.  The sets were absolutely brilliant.  It was better than the movie.  They were fantastic and dreamlike.  The acting was stupendous and all the actors were incredibly talented.  The dance numbers were astounding.  The "Be Our Guest" was played out just like the movie, and there were people dancing as plates, knives, spoons, forks, desserts and moving parts on the stage.  Captivating.  Magical.  I may or may not have cried while Belle and the Beast danced.  You would have too.

Shopping Bliss

BIENVENIDOS A BUENOS AIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We arrived very late at night, so our first night in the city consisted of a pizza dinner, not recommended by Lonely Planet but still delicious.  It was a deep dish pizza--the first of it's kind I've seen south of Chicago.  I must say, it definitely put up a fight to the Windy City versions.  Although we were tired, our French amigos invited us to check out an "internationally known" club called Pacha.  It was quite an experience.  DJ's spinning some crazy good beats in the different areas of the club provided a nice backdrop to dancing and good timing with friends.  Lonely Planet encourages you to stay until sunrise on the patio but we did not make it that long.


The next day was full of surprise and adventure.  We woke up and headed to a neighborhood south of the Microcentro called San Telmo.  There is a huge artisan's market there and I was in shopping heaven for hours.  Brice wasn't nearly as impressed with opportunities to shop, but he was impressed with my ability to spot the deals and consequently make them mine.  Let's just say, I'm bringing home a lot of presents for you!  I looked for Argentine goods.  This market was full of authentic artisan crafts--not all the fake junk that sometimes infiltrates these open air markets.  My favorite purchases of the day include a fancy leather belt, a beautiful tango photograph and a special necklace.  Thank goodness for the peso/ dollar exchange rate!

Mi Querida Argentina

It's official.  It is my beloved Argentina.  

I've kept my blog posts as up-beat and focused on the positive as possible.  But let's take a reality check.  SPOILER: Honesty moment alert.  Studying abroad is an experience of epic proportions.  In definition it takes you away from everything familiar, everything normal and throws you headfirst into a foreign culture, where they speak a different language that you've only ever learned in a classroom, operate differently, think differently, act differently, eat differently... It's an adjustment and acceptance process.

Before I left for Argentina, I was required to take a class to prepare.  This class, although it seemed silly at the time, has proved to be a huge help to me.  If nothing else, it kept me thinking as positively as possible through the ups and downs of culture shock.

Oh culture shock, two nasty little words.  The funny thing about culture shock is that you cannot really recognize it while you are going through it--it is a very retrospective process.  I first experienced culture shock this past summer when I traversed the European continent.  I definitely didn't recognize it at the time but just felt incredibly overwhelmed and exhausted and sad and a million other feelings.  After being in the class, I realized that what I had felt wasn't me being "weak" or "unworldly" but rather a very normal and very expected reaction to encountering new cultures.  I thought I was much more prepared (i.e. invincible) this time around, but the culture shock virus did eventually catch up with me--in new and unexpected ways.

So first in the Culture Shock Curve comes the honeymoon phase.  This is also known as the "tourist" or "cultural euphoria" stage. Usually when just visiting for a short period of time, you stay within this phase the whole time.  Everything is peachy-keen and you see the world through rose-colored glasses.  The words exciting, cultural, new, happy are thrown around a lot.  Next, we start to slide down the curve into the deep dark oblivion of "cultural confrontation."  Just like the class warned, I found myself here about a month ago, almost exactly halfway through my experience.  I knew it might come, but at first I struggled to recognize that my homesickness feelings or frustration with my life here came from culture shock--but they certainly did.  It wasn't as intense as I experienced this past summer, but it was there.  I felt out of place and sad.  I missed home, missed good ole American food, missed my family, my friends.  But more than missing, I felt a little lost here.  I felt like my Spanish wasn't improving anymore, I felt like I was missing out on opportunities to improve it.  I was basically grumpy for about two straight weeks.

Like magic, I transitioned into the "cultural adjustment" phase.  According to my manual, this means I have reached "significant cultural adjustment."  I beam with pride.  It was as much a conscious decision as a unconscious one.  I looked at the calendar and realized I had less than half of my time here and rededicated myself to taking advantage of every opportunity.  Also, the people here really helped me.  I started to realize how much my friends that I've made meant to me.  And also, how much I would miss not seeing them everyday.  I maybe haven't gotten as much sleep the past few weeks, but I've had the best times.  No worries, I'm still making time for school, and sleep--both pivotally important I know.  I feel myself falling in love with this experience a little bit more everyday.  I know I am changing.  I feel it, I see it every time I look in the mirror.  I know I am more self-reliant, I've learned to not sweat the small stuff as much, I have an ever-increasing capacity to relate cross-culturally.  Call me a cliche, but I am becoming the person I've always wanted to be.

I don't think I've quite reached the "cultural adaptation" stage.  I'm not completely accepted as a Cordobesa quite yet--but I'm getting there.  I must say again, it's easy to focus on the language and say, "Wow, look at that-- I've gotten so much better at Spanish."  It is very true; but it is so much more than that.  I've gotten better at being Becky.  I can't wait to find out what the last two months here has in store for me.  Stay tuned.  

Catch the travel bug.

I have it and I would like to spread my germs to you... in a non-gross, micro-biotic way.

This is a really cool interactive map that shows the most and least traveled places on earth.  Any and all fellow travelers will love it--as will anyone who likes pretty colors and wants to be more informed!

Enjoy:

Tourist Map : Google Earth